15 February 2025.
Vikos Gorge is one of the best kept secrets in northern Greece. Discover everything you need to know to hike amongst its magnificent cliffs in this guide.
It was Vikos Gorge that first put the region of Zagori on my radar.
In an effort to find somewhere in northern Greece to break up the journey between Athens and my beloved beach town of Himara in southern Albania, I stumbled upon stories of this vast green chasm that connected a web of hiking trails with dozens of remote stone villages.
Needless to stay, the place was hastily bookmarked and quickly became the centre piece around which the puzzle of my entire weeklong roadtrip through the region would be built.
The Northern Pindos National Park, the largest in mainland Greece, was established in 2005 as an amalgamation of the Vikos-Aoös National Park and the National Forests of Pindos.
The region is defined by stark dolomite peaks, forested foothills, alpine lakes, spectacular gorges and natural springs that feed some of the Europe’s most pristine waterways, as well as playing host to enchanting Zagoriand its 46 historic stone villages.
Carving a striking tear through these rugged landscapes, the magnificent Vikos Gorge is the region’s most spellbinding natural phenomenon.
Visitors can marvel at the vast abyss from above at the many clifftop viewpoints, but to walk beneath its staggering cliffs which soar above 1,300 metres at the deepest point is a truly humbling experience, and in my opinion, the best way to fully experience its grandeur.
Vikos Gorge spans for some 32 km though its hiking trail covers only the most impressive 12 km located between the villages of Monodendri and Vikos, with an alternate detour that ends in Papingo.
The hike can be completed from either end, though Monodendri in the south is the most popular starting point from where you’ll descend steeply to the canyon floor, be guided by the contours of the riverbed and undulating hills of the chasm towards the brilliant blue Voidomatis Springs surging up from underground. The final section ascends through fields of buttercup yellow wildflowers to the tiny hilltop village of Vikos which marks the end point of the trail.
As a point to point hike with no public transport at either end, one important consideration is how you plan to get back to the trailhead – either returning via the same route on foot, or arranging a taxi.
This guide covers everything you need to know for the fantastic Vikos Gorge hike, including how to get there, where to stay, and where to find the best viewpoints.
Vikos Gorge Hiking Details
Distance | 12 km one way / 24 km return
Duration | 5 – 6 hours / 10 – 12 hours
Difficulty | Moderate
Elevation Gain | 676 m / 1,659 m
Trailhead | Monodendri Central Square
How to Get To Vikos Gorge
The easiest way to reach Vikos Gorge is by renting a car in Ioannina which I’d highly recommend to get the most out of your visit, but it’s also possible to arrive by taxi, on foot or, the seemingly impossible option, by bus
The Vikos Gorge Hike extends between Monodendri and Vikos with an alternate detour that ends in Papingo.
While it’s possible to begin the trail from any of the three villages, Monodendri is the most common starting point, located within the dense cluster of eastern Zagori villages which lie closest to Ioannina.
Vikos and Papingo are usually utilised by those on a multi-day hiking trip across Zagori, where they may be arriving from Kleidonia via the Voidomatis Ice Age Trail to Vikos, or from Konitsa via the Aoos Gorge and Drakolimni to Papingo.
Don’t miss this guide on the best Zagori hikes.
Travel By Car
Ioannina is the gateway to the Zagori region and lies 39 kilometres or an hourlong drive from Monodendri. Take the highway north from Ioannina, turning right just after Metamorfosi and following the well signposted mountain road towards Vitsa and Monodendri.
Much of Monodendri’s narrow cobbled streets are pedestrian only. I’d recommend parking in the bays alongside the main road around here, or if you’re willing the brave the village streets, you’ll also find a parking area located close to the square here.
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FIND YOUR RENTAL CAR // There is next to no public transport in the region so I’d highly recommend having your own vehicle to best explore the fantastic Zagori region.
Ioannina is the ideal place to collect your rental car with several companies located in both the airport and city centre. Alternatively, Athens or Thessaloniki are major hubs for those arriving further afield.
I recommend usingDiscover Carswhich offers a variety of suppliers at competitive rates for the region.Find the best deals here.
Take a Taxi
If you’re not keen on renting a car and the infrequent buses don’t line up with your plans, it’s also possible to arrange a taxi from Ioannina to Monodendri or any of the nearby villages.
There are taxis available directly from Ioannina, otherwise Ladias Guesthouse in Monodendri operates a taxi service within the region.
Travel By Public Transport
The bus schedule for Zagori seems to be a closely guarded secret and it’s near impossible to find any reliable, up-to-date information online.
The timetable is not included on theKTEL website, however I did see the bus bound for Ioannina waiting in Monodendri at the start of my trip and when asking at the Ioannina bus station was told the next bus was in 10 days time.
Other than confirming that a bus does in fact exist, this is little to no help.
If public transport is your only option, I’d recommend reaching out to your guesthouse in Zagori for the schedule and being very flexible with your plans. At best, it appears buses depart for Monodendri and Papingo just once per week, or fortnightly outside of peak season.
Travel On Foot
Zagori is extremely well set up for multi-day walks and you could very well while away an entire week exploring the area on foot.
Many villages are connected by historic stone paths or well-worn trails that lead from the alpine plateau and its austere peaks to the lush forests that carpet the lowlands, between countless stone bridges and ancient villages, each with a sprinkling of guesthouses and restaurants.
Kleidonia or Konitsa are accessible by public transport (see timetables here) and make a feasible starting point for a long-distance hike that would bring you to the north of Vikos Gorge within a few of days. The villages of western Zagori are interlinked via a dense web of trails and would also be possible, though you’d need to arrange transport to arrive here.
Where to Stay For Vikos Gorge
Monodendri makes an ideal base for the Vikos Gorge hike, though for anyone staying in the area for a few days, Vitsa, Kipi or Dilofo are also decent options and lie within 30 minutes of the trailhead.
I stayed at both Monodendri and Kipi during my visit which both have plenty of accommodation options to suit a range of budgets.
Ladias Guesthouse | This cosy family-run guesthouse is a great affordable option located on the main road as you enter Monodendri. Operated by two brothers who are a wealth of information on the area, you’ll receive a warm welcome and be offered plenty of advice for your visit. A solid traditional breakfast is also included and taxi transfers are easily arranged. Check rates and availability here.
The Five Keys | One of the newer options in Monodendri, Five Keys offers modern, freshly renovated rooms with guests being particularly fond of the excellent breakfast spread and welcoming host.Check rates and availability here.
Hotel Machalas | I spent my last night in Zagori at this wonderful guesthouse in Kipi where you’ll find spacious, well-equipped rooms set around a courtyard and a fantastic breakfast – the best I had in the region. The restaurant opposite is run by the same owners and is also the best in town. Check rates and availability here.
Katikia Zagori |This beautiful stone hotel in Vitsa is one of the best rated in the region and offers newly renovated rooms that combine modern and traditional details throughout, a leafy terrace and a solid breakfast. Check rates and availability here.
Dilofo Hotel Luxury Suites |Another excellent option, Dilofo Hotel provides bright, spacious suites and offers an onsite restaurant, bar and lounge for guests. As the quietest village in this list, Dilofo is really the place to go if you want to escape it all.Check rates and availability here.
Vikos Gorge Hiking Guide
It may be small, but navigating Monodendri can sometimes feel like you’re stuck in a maze of carefully crafted stone walls and slate roofs, with a backdrop of rolling green hills taunting you in the distance and signs that direct you in circles rather than along the most direct route.
At least, that was my experience.
I got endlessly turned around amongst the warren of streets far more than I’d like to admit, finding myself suddenly funnelled off down a cobbled side street or climbing a hill in completely the wrong direction.
But if you stick on a downward trajectory and keep following said signs, you should eventually arrive at the leafy central square located downhill from the main road.
From the square, head east along the cobbled road through the forest and past the open air theater to begin the slow 1.7 km descent to the canyon floor via a steep switchback trail.
Along the way, gaps in the trees offer glimpses of vertiginous limestone cliffs that soar above a belt of emerald trees. Plumes of cottony mist drape across the valley, peeling off in delicate coils and dissolving in the warm golden rays that spill over the precipice.
With the forest still cloaked in darkness, bird song and their frenzied morning activity fills the canopy, accompanied by the crunch of rocks underfoot as you continue your downhill march.
At the base of the steep canyon wall lies an open blue pipe spouting drinking water and a three way intersection with trails diverting to Kapesovo, Monodendri and Vikos.
Take the left hand fork to begin the spectacular journey through the belly of Vikos Gorge for the next 9 km, meandering in sync with the contours of the Voidomatis River and the undulating hills of the lower canyon.
Along these early stages, lush forests and a carpet of spongey moss engulf the trail.
The river is mostly dried up revealing a pearly white riverbed littered with smooth limestone pebbles, though here and there you’ll find turquoise pools dotted beside the route. Overhead, the mist continues its hypnotic dance beneath a vivid cerulean sky.
Just a few minutes from the intersection, the path opens up to reveal the impressive cliffs that stand guard at the mouth of the Mazarias Gorge.
A few minutes further and you’ll find a curious web of roots clinging to the rock face, mimicking a remarkable tree pattern of its own.
Onwards, a steep, slippery burst and set of concrete steps brings you over a small hill onto an open rock platform where enormous cliffs tower above, streaked in charcoal and ochre, and a large crystalline pool sprawls out below.
Continuing up the riverbed and over another rock platform before returning to the forest, the trail begins to climb, guiding you across and down a sharp, slightly unstable rubble slope where a cable is secured for support.
Passing a large cave and another scrambly cable-supported section, the route descends back towards the canyon floor where you’ll find another freshwater spring.
Crossing a further hill, the path finally begins to flatten out as you pass the halfway point and continues along a steady gentle decline through the gorge, with the occasional small ascent, for the next few kilometres.
This section is very diverse, scuttling beside a sheer cliff face and beneath a rocky overhang, through verdant forests and an open flower-filled meadow, before emerging back on the riverbed where the giant pinnacles of Vikos Gorge pierce the sky in every direction.
Over the next 2 km, the canopy coverage which provides a much-needed respite from the midday sun begins to fade and things quickly heat up.
Onwards along the rocky path, you’ll reach the next intersection where the trail heads right for Papingo and left for Vikos and the magical Voidomatis Springs.
After a short way, a narrow side trail veers off to the river where the natural spring swells up from underground, creating a charming oasis amongst the trees.
This is a lovely place to come for a short break before continuing up the river or embarking on the steep final ascent back up the gorge walls to Vikos.
Alternatively, about 500 m further up the main trail, you’ll pass another unmarked intersection with a trail heading off to the right that leads to the Panagias Chapel which houses some lovely frescoes, and the enchanting Angastromeni Springs.
This detour is 800 m out and back and descends gradually to a grassy clearing, but the vast turquoise pools formed by the springs billowing into the river is spectacular and well worth the trip.
If you’re only hiking as far as Vikos, settling in the shade beside the water is a fantastic place to enjoy your lunch break and a bone-chilling swim in the 4°C water if you dare.
I had planned to return to Monodendri on foot, but with an afternoon storm looming and several more hours of walking still to go, I unfortunately didn’t have much time to linger around the springs which was my biggest regret from the day.
If you do intend to walk both ways, I’d actually suggest pushing straight onto Vikos first and then enjoying a well-deserved break at the springs on your return leg with the steep ascent already behind you.
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TOP TIP | Zagori is famous for its traditional pies which make a delicious option for a packed lunch and, if you’re anything like me, provide a welcome break from the tedious hiking sandwiches.
Pies are made with layers of flaky filo pastry, stuffed with tasty filling and served as a slice, rather than a fully encased pastry pocket like you’ll find in Australia or the UK.
Chicken or spinach are most popular, though flavours like pumpkin are also available in season.
A couple of cafes dotted around the central square in Monodendri serve pies (and sweet pastries) for takeaway or you can collect them the night before. Just be sure to pack them well so they don’t make a mess in your bag.
Pushing on, the final climb to Vikos begins, ascending gradually up a rubble track before meeting a series of switchbacks that cut through a resplendent floral display, making the sweaty climb far more enjoyable than it ought to be.
Waist high blooms of buttercup yellow Jerusalem sage cascade across the slope, beaming happily in the blazing sunshine and attracting a delighted flurry of honey bees.
Don’t forget to look out across the green canyon where the aqua ribbon of the river wraps around the chapel amidst an ocean of trees.
Huffing to the top of the rise, you’ll emerge onto the road at the entrance to the pocket-sized Zagori village of Vikos.
Head right here and take the stone path that leads towards the Vikos Gorge Viewpoint where you’ll find a shaded pavilion perched on the escarpment.
Directly ahead, the hulking rock tabletop of Psarovotano stands proudly and leads the eye directly into the wide forested bowl of Vikos Gorge bound by craggy cliffs.
A simply spectacular place to end one of the best hikes in Zagori.
Returning To Monodendri
Now, I agonised over exactly how to get back to Monodendri for a long time – either to return on foot or call it a day and jump in a taxi – and while I absolutely loved the hike, I would do things differently next time.
Ultimately, it comes down to whether you’d prefer to do the hike all over again after arriving in Vikos, or enjoy the walk at a more leisurely pace and fork out the money for a ride back.
In general, the recommended walking time is 5 to 6 hours each way.
I took 6 hours on the way to Vikos including breaks, though I found it impossible to put my camera down and stopped far too frequently to take photos and marvel at the landscapes. The way back took just 4 hours at a solid, consistent pace in an effort to beat the storm, despite the tough final ascent so the walk can certainly be completed faster if needed.
For extended breaks at the Voidomatis Springs, I’d recommend factoring in additional time.
In the end, I had such a great time hiking the way there that once I arrived in Vikos I was more than happy to hike back. Several hours later though, I wasn’t quite as sure.
This did mean I had to start my hike earlier than I’d ordinarily care for, rush through the magical springs and gobble down lunch, not to mention the arduous final ascent back up the wall to Monodendri.
Thankfully, I arrived back in town seconds before the storm hit and was able to take refuge in the pie shop where I inhaled several pastries as my reward for a long day on trail while waiting out the torrential rain.
If you’re fit and up for the challenge, walking both ways is perfectly feasible, but be sure to leave early enough to allow for 10+ hours of walking and be prepared for the significant elevation gain that you’ll accumulate (more than 1,600 m).
The final section of the trail is encased in forest and can become extremely dark once you begin to lose sunlight so don’t get caught out at the end of the day.
The last 5 km are also the most demanding with constant hills and a relentless final ascent to Monodendri perched at the highest point along the trail.
Don’t forget to bring plenty of snacks for the return trip and remember to fill up with water at the various springs to keep hydrated in the afternoon heat.
All of that said, in hindsight I do wish I’d opted for the taxi, simply to allow more time to enjoy the many beautiful spots along the way, particularly the springs, without the constant time pressure of having to complete the return journey before dark.
If you have a few people to share the cost of the taxi with, it’s a no brainer.
There’s usually a taxi or two waiting around the parking lot in Vikos where the hiking trail intersects with the road, otherwise you’ll see a few signs advertising taxi services around the village or can organise one through your guesthouse.
Ladias Guesthouse in Monodendri provides taxi transfers within the region and frequently collects guests and other visitors from the route. Prices start from around €40 for the 45-minute drive with discounts available for guests.
Visit The Other Spectacular Vikos Gorge Viewpoints
Completed the hike but still can’t get enough?
It should come as no surprise that there several spectacular Vikos Gorge viewpoints from which to take in this extraordinary sight from above which are well worth visiting in the days either side of your hike.
Beloi Lookout
For the absolute best vantage point to see Vikos Gorge from above, do not miss Beloi Lookout. Perched on the impressive cliffs at the southern end of Vikos Gorge, this sweeping viewpoint stares straight down the forested folds of the canyon.
The viewpoint sits 2 km or an easy 30-minute walk from Vradeto and makes an excellent addition to the Vradeto Steps hike from Kapesovo.
Oxya Viewpoint
Oxya sits directly opposite Beloi atop the western flank and is another epic Vikos Gorge viewpoint overlooking the delicate ribbon of the Voidomatis River snaking though a vast tract of forest bound by craggy cliffs.
Oxya Viewpoint is just a 15-minute drive from Monodendri followed by a 300 m walk to the cliff top lookout. Be sure to stop at the curious Stone Forest along the way.
Paraskevi Monastery
Set 800 m north from Monodendri’s central square, the Holy Monastery of Saint Paraskevi can be reached on foot via a cobbled road which descends gradually towards the sacred complex.
Continue through the covered corridor and swing around onto the rear balcony for the best views. There’s also a small, rough path that unfolds behind the complex and leads to the neighouring cliffs for a different perspective.
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